Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers
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Average customer review:Product Description
Recipes from the back rooms and basement bakeries that produce Europe's best breads. When Daniel Leader opened his Catskills bakery, Bread Alone, twenty years ago, he was determined to duplicate the whole-grain and sourdough breads he had learned to make in the bakeries of Paris. The bakery was an instant success, and his first book, Bread Alone, brought Leader's breads to home kitchens. In this, his second book, Leader shares his experiences traveling throughout Europe in search of the best artisan breads. He learned how to make new-wave sourdough baguettes with spelt, flaxseed, and soy at an organic bakery in Alsace; and in Genzano, outside of Rome, he worked with the bakers who make the enormous country loaves so unique that they have earned the Indicazione Geografica Protetta (IGP), a government mark reserved for the most prized foods and wines. Leader's detailed recipes describe every step that it takes to reproduce these rare loaves, which until now were available strictly locally. 32 pages of color illustrations.
Product Details
- Amazon Sales Rank: #201877 in Books
- Published on: 2007-08-17
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Binding: Hardcover
- 368 pages
Features
- ISBN13: 9780393050554
- Condition: NEW
- Notes: Brand New from Publisher. No Remainder Mark.
- Click here to view our Condition Guide and Shipping Prices
Editorial Reviews
From Publishers Weekly
Leader's new bread-baking book is distinguished from his earlier classic Bread Alone by its focus on regional specialties, from the Alsatian classic pain au levain to Tuscan black olive puccia, from German laugenbrezeln or pretzels to the dark Silesian rye of the Czech Republic. The book opens with 50 pages of well-written and thorough instructions on everything from ingredients to equipment. The most helpful part is the explanation of the basic steps of any bread-making process, which serves as a primer on the procedural elements that are universal across the various European traditions. Leader, who founded the heralded Bread Alone bakery in Woodstock, N.Y., is most interested in teaching holistically, so that his readers will feel comfortable becoming apprentices and then experts themselves. One can't help imagining, however, that bread baking is best learned in the flesh. Leader advises that the only way to figure out if the dough is ready is through experience, and a hapless home baker might agree. Still, the book is an excellent primer on the best breads of Europe, and the traveler who has returned home with a longing for the Roman specialty pane di altamura might be satisfied with a mouth-watering trip down memory lane. (Aug.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
From Booklist
After perusing the remarkable recipes in Leader's compilation of the best of Europe's artisanal breads, only the most resolutely self-controlled baker will be able to resist marching to the kitchen to reproduce one of these captivating loaves. Leader explains how to create a sourdough from airborne yeasts, and he uses that starter for many of these breads to yield superior, deep flavor and thick, crunchy crusts. Ranging from baguettes to chocolate croissants, from Italian ciabatta to dark Silesian rye, and from Czech country bread to potato pizza, these recipes give access to bread bakers' highest art. For those lacking the courage and patience to ferment a real sourdough starter, Leader offers several different shortcuts to success. Line drawings guide the novice, and full-color photographs render ideals for Leader's students to emulate. Question-and-answer sections throughout the book succinctly clarify potential problem areas. Leader's Auvergnat blue cheese rye rolls alone make this book a must for devotees of the baker's art. Knoblauch, Mark
About the Author
Daniel Leader is the founder of Woodstock, New York's legendary bakery, Bread Alone, and author of Bread Alone, which won an International Association of Culinary Professionals Cookbook Award. He lives in the Catskills.
Customer Reviews
Good addition to the home bread-baking library
Local Breads is a good addition to the bread bakers library. There are probably three types of people who would be interested in this book:
1) die-hard artisan bread-baking fanatics (or perhaps not quite fanatic). If you say "hmmm... this describes me pretty accurately, as you pick dried dough off of your forearms), you definitely need this book. No sense having an incomplete home artisan-bread-baking library. It also contains recipes I have not encountered in other books. There is bound to be at least one or two recipes that will enter into your rotation.
2) Arm-chair bread-bakers. If you don't bake bread everyday, but enjoy eating it (or perhaps you used to be a fanatic and no longer have time), this book is still for you. In addition to numerous recipes, the descriptions of bakeries, bakers, bread, and other experiences makes for a very good read (if you enjoyed American Pie or any of Maggie Glezer's books, you will probably like this one as well). Likewise, if you are interested in travel or the slow food movement, this book could be of interest to you.
3) Beginning bakers. This could be an acceptable first book for people just getting introduced to the world of artisan bread baking-- I would probably recommend Peter Reinhart's books instead of or, if you want as much knowledge as possible, in addition to Leader's. It probably makes more sense to have fundamental baking knowledge before diving into a multi-step sourdough recipe, for example. If you are prepared for some trial and error, the recipes themselves are very clear... there are just some things that cannot be understood perfectly without a little bit of prior experience. Leader does have a very helpful introduction with basic techniques and equipment. So, it could be appropriate for novices (although perhaps slightly overwhelming).
This book is probably best described as a hybrid between Hammelman's Bread and Glezer's Artisan Baking Across America. It definitely has enough unique qualities to justify its purchase and it may even end up earning a permanent spot in your kitchen (sending your previous favorite to the living room shelf)
Unfortunately (and Leader's book is not the only one suffering from this problem) the book could have benefited from more attentive editing. There are many typographical errors and other mistakes in this book, which is perhaps excusable for a first edition (e.g. he describes a pizza al pomodori. This should be either al pomodoro or ai pomodori. These types of mistakes should be corrected in a second printing.
Superb
There are many fine books detailing the art and science of crafting artisan breads. Among the best are those authored by Bernard Clayton, Jeffrey Hamelman, Rose Levy Beranbaum, Peter Reinhart, Maggie Glezer, Nancy Silverton, and Beth Hensperger. Now comes Daniel Leader with his second book, "Local Breads" and it's nothing short of extraordinary. While Clayton's book boasts 300 recipes, "Local Breads" has only about 50 (with variations). Where "Local Breads" shines is technique - tools and expert advice - that will serve the baker - at any level of experience - across all breadmaking endeavors. How can you ignore an author whose first directive is to "seek out flour with integrity"?
Among the book's best features are the FAQ's throughout. Leader anticipates virtually every possible question about creating bread - from start to finish - and answers them in a straighforward manner. The section on "Ingredients and Equipment" is well-researched and enormously helpful. "Kitchen Notes" and beautifully rendered illustrations are equally beneficial. The layout is logical and navigable and the entire book has a clarity that makes intimidation impossible. Even the choice of paper stock (enamel paper would have made the book too heavy) and fonts were wise, making the book easy on the eyes. All ingredients are given in metric weights as well as U.S. measurements, although temperatures are in Farenheit only - a very minor oversight. Perhaps a second printing might include a temperature conversion chart. Much thought was given to the book's overall design, however - a credit to its eminent editor, Maria Guarnaschelli. This is not a volume meant to be "edgy" or "cool". It's a beautiful book, intelligently written, and would make a thoughtful gift for any baker. Above all, this is an instruction manual - delivered with passion, not pontification. It's like having a Master Baker in the kitchen with you - a Rabbi of Bread, teaching and encouraging you through every step of the process.
I initially took the book out of the library (and have since purchased it) and was up until 3:00 a.m. completely engrossed within its pages. From the beautifully written "Introduction" to the final pages dealing with "Czech and Polish Ryes", I was hooked. Even if you never bake a loaf of bread, you will enjoy Leader's tales of traveling throughout Europe in search of bread Nirvana.
Warning: The recipes given in this book are largely rustic European loaves. Leader gives us truly authentic breads from France, Italy, Germany, Austria, Poland and the Czech Republic. Sadly, breads from Scandinavia, Russia, and India are not represented - but Leader did not set out to cover those parts of the world in this volume. If you're searching for soft American-style white or wheat breads - you won't find them in this tome. This is NOT the Pillsbury book of bread making. Most of the bread recipes advocate the use a wild starter or pre-ferment (sourdough), rather than store-bought yeast but there are recipes in each chapter that use packaged yeast for novice bakers or those who might wish to speed things up a bit.
You may think this is a book for advanced bakers only. Nothing could be further from the truth. Whether you're a beginner, a baker with some experience, a serious amateur, or a professional, this book belongs on your shelf - but it won't stay there long! It's also a great read for anyone interested in food writing and especially for those who support the Slow Food movement. Although I have not yet baked any of the breads in the book, I have full confidence that following Leader's steps, I will produce some fine loaves ("French Sourdough" ,"Ricotta Bread", "Little Blue Cheese Rye Loaves" and "Light Silesian Rye" are at the top of my list). More importantly, I can take what I have learned and incorporate Leader's counsel and techniques to other breads in my collection. This book is a joy and should garner the James Beard Award.
A WORTHY ADDITION TO ANY BREADBAKING LIBRARY
This book continues the commentable trend of publishing high quality, low price books on traditional (see proper) breadbaking.
'Local breads' bears a more than passing reseblance to Jeffrey Hamelman's book 'Bread'. They both have the same type of protective cover, the same quality of paper, similar layout, charcoal drawings to display the methods and sections of photographs in between the pages. I find 'Bread' to be somewhat superior though.
The book is not 448 pages but exactly 355 including the index.
It starts with a list of all the recipes that can be found in the book, and continues with basic advise on procedures and an introduction to the ingredients and equipment used. These are illustrated by charcoal drawings. It then goes on to introduce the reader (again using illustrations) to the basic method of making a bread recipe, from weighing to mixing, proofing, shaping etc(of course, not all recipes are made exactly like this). A 'menu'(sic) of European starters and sourdoughs is displayed eg levain, biga etc, followed by a method for making sourdough from scratch. A very nice touch is a chapter on frequently asked questions concerning breadmaking. The author suggests that the reader reads this first (and very rightly so). Mr Leader intersperses some interesting stories and histories in between the recipes and each new recipe has a very thorough introduction, which is a joy to read.
Many of the traditional European breads are here, including pain levain, baguettes, saltless Tuscan bread, ciabatta, pizza, pane de altamura, sourdough rye and even sourdough croissants. In, in between, before, after and on the side of the recipes there is an abundance of information, that assists the reader to understand the whole procedure for and logic behind each product.
The measurements are in Volume, Imperial, Metric and Baker's Percentage to fascilitate all users from around the world.
On the downside: I was not thrilled by the scoring on many of the loaves displayed. If one looks at the photos in both 'BREAD' by Hamelman and 'THE TASTE OF BREAD' by Calvel they can see perfectly scored and baked hearth loafs and underneath less attractive looking loafs baked in pans, convection ovens, without steam etc, that display less bloom in the cuts. Many of Leader's loafs look like the latter.
The second thing that I do not like is the fact that this book deals only with the breads of central and northern Europe, ie France, Germany, Italy, Austria, Poland etc. To quote the title: "Sourdough and whole-grain recipes from Europe's best artisan bakers". So do Spain, Greece, Malta, Serbia etc not have artisan bakers? Do they not have good bread? Some of the best bread on this earth is made in the small island of Malta. Greece has innumerable breads and a great artisan tradition. The olive bread made in my own island of Cyprus is much-much better than the olive bread in the book.(Not to leave you guessing, in 1 kg/2lb+3oz naturally leavened dough, mix some olive oil(half a cup), lots of black olives, chopped fresh coriander, chopped fresh mint and 1 large chopped onion. Shape as desired, usualy round, proof and bake 200C/375F).
Besides these faults though this is a great book to have and at this price, a bargain.



