Product Description

Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it--just curiosity and a fascination for waves.

Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #75298 in Books
• Published on: 2004-07-30
• Original language: English
• Number of items: 1
• Binding: Paperback
• 144 pages

Surfer's Journal
"One of the most sophisticated surfing books ever produced... a must for any surfer."

About the Author
Dr. Tony Butt is a big wave specialist based in the Basque Country, and postdoctoral research fellow at the University of Plymouth, England. He is a regular contributor to European surfing magazines and runs a wave prediction website. Dr. Paul Russell was twice European Surfing Champion and is now reader in coastal dynamics at the School of Earth, Ocean and Environmental Sciences, University of Plymouth.

Richard (Rick) Grigg pioneered big-wave surfing on the North Shore of O'ahu, Hawai'i, and is now professor of oceanography at the University of Hawai'i.

Customer Reviews

Dude! It's Surf Science, NOT Surfing Science
If you want to see waves and surfing, buy a magazine. If you want to learn about the surf and waves, how they are formed, and what affects their size, form and period, buy this book. It takes complex concepts and explains them in simple, understandable terms with good graphic illustrations. If you want the mathematics behind the concepts, those are available too in the back of the book. I found the section on earth rotation and winds very good. It helped explain why the waves aren't any better where I surf.

Must have for anyone who likes water
This book is interesting for anyone thta likes water or has wondered about why waves do what they do.This is a must buy for any sea loving person

Two words... "Surf Science"
Two words... "Surf Science".
And this is absolutely the best title for this book. A must have for all the surfers that are interested not only in surfing good waves, but for all of them that are interested in knowing how and why the waves break so well or so bad. Wind, wave perfection, cost line, sandbars, reefs, rocks, wave frequency, channels, hollowness, etc... every aspect that affects the wave is explored in this book with great depth.
Everything is very well explained in this book and in a language that is very accessible to all people.