Product Details
KIT,T-SHIRT TRANSFER,12SH

KIT,T-SHIRT TRANSFER,12SH
From Hewlett-Packard

Price: $16.00

Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days
Ships from and sold by QUICK DELIVERY OFFICE SUPPLY

8 new or used available from $9.10

Average customer review:

Product Description

Iron-on, cool-peel inkjet transfers make it easy and fun to design T-shirts, mouse pads, caps and other customized items for your business, family, sports team or organization. Works best on white fabrics and works fine on light-colored fabric. Just iron on, let cool, then peel off the paper backing. Bright, bold colors stand up to washing.


Product Details

  • Amazon Sales Rank: #2236 in Office Product
  • Brand: Hewlett-Packard
  • Dimensions: 2.00 pounds

Features

  • Description - Iron-On Transfers for White and Light Color Fabrics
  • Machine Compatibility - Ink Jet
  • Sheet Size - 8-1/2 x 11
  • Sheet Quantity - 12 per Pack

Customer Reviews

HP IRON-ON TRANSFER PAPER4
HP was the first paper I tried when I started making t-shirts. It cracked, so I got "commercial" iron-on paper. That cracked too. My supplier told me the iron had to be hot enough, and I had to press hard, putting my weight behind it (that's alot of weight... haha). So I bought a new iron, set it at the hottest setting, and I pressed each part of the transfer for the same length of time and I pressed hard. But I started burning the transfers because the new iron was TOO hot. So I set it a hair under the highest cotton setting (instead of all the way up to linen), and it was just right. (For a whole sheet transfer, I first iron around the transfer to set it down; then I press in increments of about three inches for five long seconds, all the way across, making about four or five rows of presses to get from the top to the bottom, and then start all over again going up and down, making four or five rows of presses to get from one side to the other. I press and lift, rather than pushing. When I'm done pressing, I move the iron in a kind of circular pattern all around the transfer again, pressing firmly. Then I lift up one edge and peel it back a ways to check the tranfser. If it looks good, I warm it up again where I'm going to peel, and then start peeling, and let the iron follow me so the transfer doesn't cool down as I'm peeling so I don't get shiny edges. Phew what a pain in the ***.) Anyways, just when I really got the hang of it, my supplier let me down and I couldn't get my professional paper in time for the weekend. SO I WENT BACK TO THE HP, USING THE SAME TECHNIQUE. It burned the first time, and so I set the iron about a half a number under what I had it set at before, and didn't iron it quite as long. It looked really good, but I wanted to see if the transfer was strong enough, so instead of waiting, I threw it right in the washer (inside out, cold water, no bleach; knits-delicates setting on the dryer). I was surprised how soft it was! I couldn't even tell it was a transfer, and the color was good! SO IT WASN'T THE HP THAT WAS THE PROBLEM INITIALLY, IT WAS ME. If you're gonna use this stuff (or any iron-on transfer), the best thing I can tell you is to experiment on an old shirt. Try the hottest setting first, and turn it down if it burns. (You'll know you've burned when you see something like a tea stain on your shirt, it feels a bit fuzzy, and you'll see part of your graphic is left behind on the transfer paper when you peel it off - I think that's because instead of the ink going into the shirt, it burns back into the paper.) Be sure to count the seconds and make sure every inch of the transfer gets an even, HARD press. I FOUND THE CRACKING IS MAINLY DUE TO THE IRON NOT BEING HOT ENOUGH, AND NOT PRESSING DOWN HARD ENOUGH. THE POLYMERS GOTTA BE SQOOSHED INTO THE FABRIC. Also, I iron onto a nice smooth piece of wood, and I don't use a pillow case or anything between the shirt and the wood, and I stretch the shirt very slightly and tuck it in so it doesn't move when I iron. Then I let the shirt cool down slowly, before I take it off the wood (thinking if it cools down too fast, that might make it crack more). Before I got the new iron, I was ironing with a piece of sheet metal on top of the wood to conduct heat. That was better, but the new iron, getting the temperature right, and ironing hard and evenly, did the trick for me.

Iron on transfers5
I have really enjoyed using the iron-on transfers for making aprons for Christmas gifts. Turned out even cuter than I had imagined.

Iron-on transfers5
The second order I have had of these. I am really enjoying working with them.