A History of Costume
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Average customer review:Product Description
Egypt, Babylon, Greece up through 19th-century Europe; based on surviving pieces, art work, etc. Includes many clear, measured patterns for reproducing historic costumes. Full text. 595 illustrations. "...landmark in the field of Western European costume...exceptional value for its price."—American Artist.
Product Details
- Amazon Sales Rank: #606288 in Books
- Published on: 1963-06-01
- Original language: German
- Number of items: 1
- Binding: Paperback
- 464 pages
Customer Reviews
Handle with Care!
This can be an aggravating book. On the plus side, Kohler includes pictures of a great many extant garments, which are invaluable as a resource (the book's value as a source rises considerably after 1500 for this reason). On the other hand, there are many "patterns"--especially in the medieval period--which, unless you read carefully, can be interpreted as being taken from extant garments, and the introduction claims almost outright that these diagrams are "correct." They are not, being instead Kohler's own hypotheses. Many of them do not work as patterns. I have known many a beginner who took these diagrams as gospel and have ended up with nothing resembling an actual medieval garment. Use the illustrations (but not the "patterns") and the book can have some degree of usefulness.
Good detailed reference
The text of this book is dry, but very informative. There are many sketched and black and white illustrations, but not enough to fully support the text. (I recommend Boucher's 20,000 Years of Fashion as a companion). The patterns give a better idea of the construction of the clothes, but they are approximations and no tips are given for making your own. Make sure you refer to other sources before using his patterns. This book is most useful for its detailed descriptions of specific periods, including not just the cut and style of the period, but also material, shoes, hairstyles, accessories, and who wore what and how and on what occasions.
Reprint of the revised, edited, amalgamated 1928 compilation
Amazing that the original author's name is listed without the names of the editor and translator.
Author Carl Kohler died in 1876 near Nurnberg, Germany. His paintings and writings, upon which this particular reprint of a compilation are based, were previously published, intact, in German under the names "Die Trachten der Volker in Bild und Schnitt" and "Die Entwicklung der Tracht in Deutschland wahrend des Mittelalters und der Neuzeit", both in the late 1870s.
Emma Von Sichart, the editor of this publication, took it upon herself in the early 1920s to gather up Kohler's sketches, drawings, paintings, and writings, and put them together in a new book. During the process, she deleted almost all of Kohler's introductory or period descriptive writings, and replaced those words with either her own, or Max von Boehn's, another historian.
In addition, Emma Von Sichart added new, contemporary photographs and sketches to bring Kohler's work "up to date", at least as far as the very late 1920s. In many places she eliminated or changed Kohler's measurements, or interpretations of the cut of clothing, simply to make the work more "accessible" to the seamstress, costumer, or interested reader of the early 20th century.
Further, in order to bring the publication to English speaking markets, Emma Von Sichart's writing was translated by Alexander K. Dallas, M.A., which might have further changed the original content.
So, before we blame Kohler, who, in his time, was very highly regarded as a serious historian and quite the expert in period clothing, styles, customs, etc., we must first look to the likelihood of errors created by the editor Emma Von Sichart, and the translation errors of Alexander K. Dallas.
If by any chance you have the original German publications of the late 1870s, you do indeed have a spectacular rare treat of period costume history.
Just keep in mind that this particular book is a facsimile reprint of a translation of a heavily edited and recompiled selection of at least two originals.




