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Everything but the Squeal: Eating the Whole Hog in Northern Spain
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Product Description
Product Details
- Amazon Sales Rank: #261880 in Books
- Published on: 2008-10-28
- Released on: 2008-10-28
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Binding: Hardcover
- 320 pages
Editorial Reviews
From Publishers Weekly
Starred Review. Self-confessed glutton, travel writer and novelist Barlow (Eating Mammals; Intoxicated) doesn't scrimp on either culinary or cultural delights in this charmingly informative and witty narrative. Barlow, a resident of the relatively unknown corner of Spain, sets himself the task of consuming every part of the staple meat of rural Galicia. Traveling with his Spanish wife, a vegetarian, and his infant son, Barlow serves up vivid tales encountered during the year dedicated to his porco-graphical tour. But this tale is more than a culinary treat. Barlow is a companionable guide expounding upon history, traditions and the personalities of Galicia. His writing style is quick, lively and filled with delicious details. He takes readers on a sublime journey of the senses, including three Carnivals, one in Laza, a thousand-year-old event, combining ant throwing and a pig head bacchanal. He explores why the cousin of Fidel Castro lives at the end of a dark muddy lane in a pokey hamlet, and tracks down Antón, the most famous pig in Galicia. And he indulges in a 12-course meal, including ribs, at one of Spain's most lauded restaurants. As the ribs sit in the gentle heat, that glorious, fat-infiltrated meat is slowly transforming into what was for me one of the most spellbinding dishes I have ever eaten. (Nov.)
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From Booklist
Galicia cradles the village of Cervantes, ancestral origin of the family that produced Spain’s greatest novelist, but the creature arguably dearest to natives of Galicia is the pig. This ancient land, now Spain’s northwest quadrant, reveres the pig and makes diligent use of every part of the animal. The hind legs become exceptional cured hams, and lesser parts yield chorizo, liberally seasoned with pungent pimentón. Many of the pig’s best cuts end up in cocida, the local boiled dinner that features fresh pork and smoked sausages in a broth thick with vegetables. Fish figures in Galician cuisine as well, especially their beloved octopus. Married to a Galician, Barlow knows Galicians intimately and finds them warm but contrarian, hesitating ever to answer questions in the affirmative, a custom that drags out every conversation and encounter. Barlow introduces readers to some remarkable contemporary Galicians, including Fidel Castro’s cousin. --Mark Knoblauch
Review
“The attraction of Barlow’s book is that he goes well beyond the business of eating. He gives us a fascinating journal of his Galician wanderings . . . What comes through is a deep affection not just for Galicia’s pigs . . . but also for Galicia’s people and culture.” —The Economist
“With good humor and shameless enthusiasm, [Barlow] has written a delicious meat mash note.” —Gilbert Cruz, Time
“[Barlow] has revealed himself to be an amiable, curious, and uncomplaining guide.” —Barbara Fisher, The Boston Globe
“A person clever enough to make his way in this world by traveling, pigging out and then writing of such difficult duty might arouse a bit of envy among armchair travelers, but Barlow is so unabashedly in love with almost all things porcine (though maybe not trotters, feet or botelo, ‘smashed-up vertebrae and other stuff’ boiled in a bag of intestines) that rambling the countryside with him is a mouthwatering adventure . . . Whether cruising tapas bars, enjoying small-town festivals, sampling rural roadhouse specialties or farmers’ home-grown provisions, Barlow manages to eat pretty much the whole hog—even brains and heart, if not genitals—with an admirably old-fashioned passion for one of life’s prime joys.” —Irene Wanner, Los Angeles Times
“Perhaps even more satisfying than his madcap extreme eating and cooking experiences are Barlow's quotable observations about Galicians.” —Ben Schmerler, New York Post
“Self-confessed glutton, travel writer and novelist Barlow (Eating Mammals; Intoxicated) doesn’t scrimp on either culinary or cultural delights in this charmingly informative and witty narrative . . . Barlow serves up vivid tales encountered during the year dedicated to his “porco-graphical tour.” But this tale is more than a culinary treat. Barlow is a companionable guide expounding upon history, traditions and the personalities of Galicia. His writing style is quick, lively and filled with delicious details. He takes readers on a sublime journey of the senses.” —Publishers Weekly (starred review)
“A savory travelogue with insights that go beyond taste and texture . . . Barlow is a writer first and foremost, not just another foodie looking for a publisher to pick up his tapas tab . . . [He] embraces his adopted culture with affectionate and knowing ribbing.” —Kirkus Reviews
“John Barlow has written a most compelling and delicious book . . . [Everything but the Squeal] is not only an amusing and thoughtful journal of one man’s search for meaning in pork, but also a warm look at the foods, customs, personalities and history of the Galician people . . . This is a fine and noteworthy addition to any serious Spanish food library, and a must-read for anyone contemplating a trip into this green corner of Spain.” —James Mellgren, The Gourmet Retailer
“Splendid porky tales.” —Fergus Henderson, director/chef of St. John Bar and Restaurant and author of The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating
“Books like John Barlow’s delightful Everything but the Squeal are often more important to a chef than actual cookbooks. It is impossible to cook even the most personal food without understanding the origins of a region’s traditions. Barlow writes with considerable wit, and he perfectly captures how connected Galicians are to their landscape and culture. His tales remind me of so many of the wonderful surprises I have encountered while pursuing great food throughout Spain. You start out looking for one particular experience, and end up with life-changing adventures. And you have to love a guy who just wants to raise a son willing to share a ham sandwich.” —Alex Raij, former chef of Tía Pol and El Quinto Pino
“Galicia cradles the village of Cervantes, ancestral origin of the family that produced Spain’s greatest novelist, but the creature arguably dearest to natives of Galicia is the pig. This ancient land, now Spain’s northwest quadrant, reveres the pig and makes diligent use of every part of the animal . . . Barlow introduces readers to some remarkable contemporary Galicians, including Fidel Castro’s cousin.” —Mark Knoblauch, Booklist
Praise for Eating Mammals:
“Big-hearted and richly imagined.” —Henry Alford, The New York Times Book Review
“If Edward Gorey and Flannery O’Connor were to collaborate on a book of fiction, it might wind up a lot like Eating Mammals.” —Newsday
Customer Reviews
Quite a squeal
this is a very amusing and well paced book, part cook book and part travel book and quite good at both.
i originally bought this as a gift but read it myself and then bought 5 more copies to give as presents.
to be highly recommended.
Great Writing
Certainly, the focus of this book is on Barlow's travel in Spain to experience traditional pork recipes. (Or, was that just an excuse to travel around Galicia, meet people, and eat?) But, as he describes, eating is not just an act of fueling. It is a cultural activity. Barlow puts traditional eating in context by an insightful reflection on the way we eat today. Eating is just part of living as Barlow explains to us. This book is really about life. His use of great metaphores throughout the book makes for fun reading. I just loved this book. Very well written with a great sense of humor.
more than just a celebration of tasty ham...
Barlow's premise first attracted me to buying this book: for searching the world for the perfect chorizo or the savoriest portion of pig is also a favorite, desperate pastime of mine, although Barlow keeps his pusuit close to home in his adopted home in northern spain. Aside from his year long pursuit of eating most pig parts, Barlow's narrative sneaks up on you and becomes an hilarious send up of local festivals in Galicia that he attends over the course of his year long pig dinner. This book goes beyond just funny food or travel writing. I traveled in northern spain as a student twenty years ago and he captures perfectly the mesmerizing outsiderness that an expat never shakes in foreign lands, but he combines it with a clear joy and love he has developed of the Galician people and their devotion to the tasty celtic pig. The foil during his quest, of his vegetarian wife, had me rolling on the floor with laughter. Buy this book even if you don't like sausage. A fine affair.
