Product Description

INTRODUCTION China is not so much another country as another world. Cut off from the rest of Eurasia by the Himalayas to the south and the Siberian steppe to the north, it has grown up alone and aloof. The only foreigners it saw were visiting merchants from far-flung shores or uncivilized nomads from the wild steppe: peripheral, unimportant and unreal. Apart from a few ruling elites of Mongol and Manchu origin, who quickly became assimilated, China did not experience a significant influx of foreigners until the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, something which still colours the experience of today's visitors to China.

While empires, languages, nations and entire peoples in the rest of the world have risen and blossomed - then disappeared without trace - China has spent the past two millennia largely recycling itself. The ferocious dragons and lions of Chinese statuary have been produced by Chinese craftsmen, with the same essentially Chinese characteristics, for 25 centuries or more, and the script still used today reached perfection at the time of the Han dynasty, two thousand years ago. It is as though the Roman empire had survived intact into the twenty-first century, with a billion people speaking a language as old as classical Latin. To say that the Chinese are presently enjoying better government than at any time in their recent history may not be saying much, but it is surely true. There is little sign of the Communist Party relinquishing power, or its control over the media. However, the negative stories surrounding today's China, the oppression of dissidents, the harsh treatment of criminal suspects and the imperialist behaviour towards Tibet and other minority regions, are only one part of the picture. Away from politics, the country is undergoing a huge commercial and creative upheaval. A country the size of ten Japans has entered the world market: Hong Kong-style skylines are being constructed in cities all across China, and tens of millions of people are finding jobs that earn them a spending power they have never known. The colossal historic fact of Hong Kong and Macau, the last European colonies, being returned to China in time for the new millennium, as though by celestial injunction, only adds ! to the sense that Chinese destiny is being restored to its rightful place at the centre of the world.

The sheer pace of change is visible in every part of Chinese life, from the economy to the still-young independent travel industry. Travellers who visited China as little as ten years ago are amazed to hear how much the place has opened up and how many more liberal trends have emerged in the wake of the late Deng Xiaoping's free market economics. For whatever reasons you are attracted to China - its history, art, culture, politics or simply its inaccessibility - the speed at which things are changing will ensure that your trip is a unique one.

The first thing that strikes visitors to China is the extraordinary density of population: central and eastern China do not have landscapes so much as peoplescapes. In the fertile plains, villages seem to merge into one another, while the big cities are endlessly sprawling affairs with the majority of their inhabitants living in cramped shacks or in depressingly uniform dormitory buildings. This doesn't mean that China is the same everywhere - there are many regional variations in people and language; indeed, some whole areas of the People's Republic are not populated by the "Chinese", but by so-called minority peoples, of whom there are more than two hundred distinct groups, ranging from the hill tribes of the south to the Muslims of the northwest. Nevertheless, the most enduring images of China are intrinsically Chinese ones: chopsticks, tea, slippers, massed bicycles, shadow-boxing, exotic pop music, karaoke, teeming crowds, Dickensian train stations, smoky temples, red fla! gs and the smells of soot and frying tofu - as well as the industrial vistas you would expect from one of the world's largest economies. Away from the cities, there is the sheer joy of crossing such a vast and ancient land - from the green paddy fields and misty hilltops of the south, to the mountains of Tibet, to the scorched, epic landscapes of the old Silk Road in the northwest. And the Chinese, despite a reputation for rudeness, are generally hospitable and friendly, though in the more out-of-the-way places travellers are still considered something of an oddity.

However, it would be wrong to pretend that it is an entirely easy matter to penetrate modern China. Borders are open, visas are readily distributed and the airports are teeming with foreigners, but the standard tourist "sights" - the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, the Terracotta Army - are relatively few considering the size of the country. Indeed, historic architecture is scant to say the least, and Chinese towns and cities lack that sense of history so palpable in the great cities of Europe or the Middle East. The Communists, like all dynasties before them, simply destroyed earlier showpieces. On top of this are the frustrations of travelling in a land where few people speak English and where foreigners are regularly viewed as exotic objects of intense curiosity, or fodder for overcharging.

When planning a journey through China, bear in mind that your trip is bound to involve an element of stress and hard work. If you have lots of cities on your itinerary, try to fit in some small towns as well, which tend to be cheaper as well as more relaxing. Don't stick exclusively to the famous places and sights; often your most interesting experiences will arise in places which least expect tourists. Above all, if it's your first visit, try not to be in too much of a hurry; take your time and be selective. If your budget is tight, think about staying in just a few places and getting to know them rather than undertaking lots of expensive and exhausting journeys. Even if money is less of a problem, you might do well to forego too much travel and opt instead for higher quality restaurants and hotels. Given the inevitable frustrations of making arrangements, flexibility is essential whatever your budget.

Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #1098530 in Books
• Published on: 2000-03-01
• Number of items: 1
• Binding: Paperback
• 1184 pages

Amazon.com
Travel guides are swell wherever, with museum tips here and restaurant recommendations there, but a great guidebook is essential in China. Independent Western travelers hang on their travel guide's every word for survival, and Rough Guide delivers, describing hotel, restaurant, and transportation details accurately and clearly. It also provides scads of information on culture, history, sights, dangers, pleasures, politics, health, weather, clothing, money, and customary niceties. The maps are excellent, and important phrases (hotels, destinations) are written in Chinese characters. And as a backpacker bonus, the book weighs a mere 1.3 pounds despite the thoroughness of its content.

Sunday Times, London, UK
Best guidebook.

Times Educational Supplement, London, UK
...in addition to all the essentials for any intrepid backpacker, there are many fascinating nuggets of historical and cultural background.

Customer Reviews

Best guide to China you can get, get it before Lonely planet
I can't fully agree with negative review of this book. I'm living in China for three years now. I got many guides to China I use them quite a lot during my traveling in here. Sure there is maybe a few thing missing and there are some mistakes in this book but it is still the best. I find it much more accurate and detailed than last edition of Lonely Planet.

It's best all around travel guide for China.

If you want to get and bring just one get this one.

2003 EDITION - VERY ROUGH INDEED
This book presents itself as a revised edition, but it is very
little more than a prettied-up reprint of the text from three
years ago, and some of that was a bit long in the tooth then.

The first and second editions carried great promise, worthy
competitors for the boys from LP. To represent the third as
having been "updated" is merely a deception. It would have been
better not done at all.

The book is a curiosity. The title-page has it "written and
researched" by the same three authors as the previous edition
more than three years ago, but "this edition updated" by two
others. It's not clear that the original three have contributed
any "research" at all that was not reflected in the previous
edition. Nor is it even quite clear that the two "updaters"
have actually been on the ground in China. The "updating" is in
fact so slight that it could almost have been done by a
desk-bound clerk on the strength of readers' reports, with

perhaps the odd nod in the direction of the Lonely Planet Thorn
Tree.

The new edition has more pages, but that's explained by a
slightly larger type-face; finer paper; unchanged net weight.
A second colour introduced throughout, with improved visual
presentation, a bit prettier. And not many other changes.

Chinese names and words still without tone-marks in the main
body of the text - a shortcoming that was never really excusable
and which has been merely unacceptable since Lonely Planet bit
that particular bullet.

There is scarcely a town or locality mentioned that is not
included in the previous edition. No one who is on the ball in
the matter of China travel could fail to discover many more
places worthy of attention than he knew about three years
before. And circumstances change as well: more than a year
before the last edition, all of western Sichuan was opened for
the first time, but the vast treasure of the previously
forbidden region is still undiscovered by the new edition of
this (very) rough guide. The wonderfully scenic Muli and
Yanyuan counties in southern Sichuan have been open for years
but (apart from one passing reference to Yanyuan) rate no
mention. Yushu Prefecture in southern Qinghai, with all
counties open at least since mid-2001, is not mentioned; indeed
apart from Xining district and Golmud (Geermo) there's hardly a
mention of any part of Qinghai province at all.

Of course I can't expect even the best guidebook to discover all
the places I may have discovered and found worthwhile - the
Mekong in north-west Yunnan, Yulin in northern Shaanxi,
Shibaoshan in western Yunnan, Daocheng and the Yading Reserve,
not to mention secret places in Tibet that I'd perhaps rather
keep to myself, nor the phenomenal valley of the Salween in
western Yunnan. The trouble is that this book has found very
few new places (though there's a tantalising addition of almost
impossibly remote Loulan and a couple of extra morsels on the
"southern Silk Road" - a reader's letter perhaps?)

Then there are the occasions when I've found the previous
edition mistaken or misleading - Chishui, Matang, Tiger-Leaping
Gorge, Ruili district, Sanying hotel open to foreigners (well,
it is if you threaten the PSB with an international incident
failing their acquiescence), Pingliang hotel; and so on. Any
corrections? Not one that I can find.

Some details of hotel tariffs, telephone numbers, admission
charges and so on have been changed, but they are generally far
too few to lend any confidence in the reliability of what has
not been changed; a number I've been able to check are just
wrong.

The maps are now far too few, the provincial (or
multi-provincial) maps just too simplified; the largest scale
for some provinces is one to twenty million. Even so, how
revealing for the text to say that "Weixi marks the end of the
road" (from the east)! Tell that to the mini-bus drivers who
drive another 220km north to Deqin, from where the road
continues all the way to Lhasa and beyond! The railway line
between Changsha and north-western Hunan (which cut the journey
from Zhangjiajie to Changsha to about six hours when it had
already been commissioned three years ago) is not shown.

Good points? There's a new "food and drink glossary", which is
to say phrase-list. The paper is excellent - strong and
light, perhaps better than the heavier paper of the Lonely
Planet, so that there are about 30% more pages but 10% less
overall weight. There must be more words in the Rough Guide,
but I doubt there is more information, regardless of its
accuracy.

Up to the usual Rough Guide stardard
The Rough Guides are considered among the "cream of the crop" in the guidebook world, and this book is no exception. I used it extensively in the planning phase of my recent month-long trip to China, and it was very helpful.

The background sections of the book are outstanding, giving the reader a solid overview of Chinese history and culture. The primary sites of interest to travelers are adequately covered as well, and so the book is very helpful in planning one's itinerary.

The main drawback of the volume is it's weight. If you are backpacking in China, as I was, this book is pretty heavy to be lugging around. Therefore, unless you are staying in China more than a couple of weeks, you might consider looking at the smaller city guides.....or ripping the necessary sections out of this book and packing only those in your rucksack.

Highly recommended for pre-trip planning at home. Recommended for packing and taking to China *if* you are going on an extended trip to the country.