The Palace of the Snow Queen: Winter Travels in Lapland
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Average customer review:Product Description
Sjoholm first travels to Kiruna, Sweden, to see the Ice Hotel under construction and to meet the ice artists who make its rooms into environmental art. Traveling to the North Cape, she encounters increasing darkness and cold, but also radiant light over the mountains and snow fields. She crosses the Finnmark Plateau by dogsled, attends a Sami film festival (with an outdoor ice screen), and visits Santa's Post Office in Finland.
Over the course of three winters, Sjoholm unearths the region's rich history, including the culture of the Sami. As Sjoholm becomes more familiar with Kiruna, she writes of the changes occurring in northern Scandinavia and contemplates the tensions between tourism, the expansion of mining and development of the Ice Hotel, and age-old patterns of land use, the Sami's struggle to maintain their reindeer grazing lands and migration routes.
In The Palace of the Snow Queen, Sjoholm relates her adventures in the far north, and considers how ice and snow shape our imaginations and create, at a time of global warming, a vision that increasingly draws visitors to Lapland.
Product Details
- Amazon Sales Rank: #734341 in Books
- Published on: 2007-09-28
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Binding: Paperback
- 320 pages
Customer Reviews
Bringing the far north home
If travel books are about making far away, different, and maybe even unbelievable landscapes accessible to those who will never journey to them, then this book has hit the mark. I found it truly engaging and felt every below zero day and snowy landscape that Sjoholm traveled through. The cold and the colors and the people of the north became alive to me in a way that surprised me given my own penchant for reading about and traveling to more equatorial climes. Fascinating! This book has a bit of everything, from the social to the political to the environmental. And why not? It's a complex landscape, as Sjoholm points out, and not at all the "wilderness" that so many have previously deemed it to be. The writing is vivid and lively, but it is also the exhaustive research that went into the storytelling that I am impressed with. The history of Lapland suddenly comes within reach of the present day because of the ways in which Sjoholm chose to tell her story. I would highly recommend the book to anyone who is thinking of traveling to northern Scandinavia, as well as to those who are not. I admire Sjoholm for doing the work and obviously being completely enthralled with the cold and darkness and people and animals; it surely couldn't have been an easy journey but readers will benefit from her efforts.
Going Into the Cold
Sjoholm's book is an intriguing read - part travelogue, part history, and part social commentary about Lapland and its indigenous people, the Sami. Struggling to cope with the breakup of a long-term relationship and post-9/11 anxiety, she decides to travel to this region encompassing the areas of Norway, Sweden, and Finland above the Arctic Circle in the winter of 2001, and again in 2003 and 2004. At the center of her odyssey is the Icehotel, a 60-room hostelry constructed entirely of snow and ice on the shores of the Torne River in Jukkasjärvi, Sweden. The hotel, visited annually by thousands of people from around the world, reminds her of the ice palace in a beloved fairytale from her childhood, Hans Christian Andersen's "The Snow Queen." Over her three trips, Sjoholm explores the building as it is being built, spends the night there as a guest, and watches as it starts to shrink and drip and melt into the river. Through the eyes of the workers and artists involved in the project, she demonstrates the fascination of creating an object of beauty not intended to last. The Icehotel exemplifies the drive to promote winter tourism in the area, an effort, Sjoholm soon discovers, that is often at odds with the needs of the reindeer-herding Sami. Sjoholm gives them voice through her thoughtful, empathetic descriptions of their history, their culture, and their determination to survive as a people amidst the march of progress. In so doing, she effectively sensitizes the reader to the plight of indigenous people everywhere. Her lyrical descriptions of light make a forbidding place seem almost appealing, as when she views the sky one morning from a steamer off the Norwegian coast: "suddenly the light was no longer bone gray, but, in the east - blush pink and turquoise, then hot rose, mango orange, the sunrise churning into sunset, all in two hours, with the sun below the horizon, invisible below the iron-hard water." And she never lets the bitter cold stop her from taking advantage of the area's attractions, from riding a sleigh pulled by reindeer and eating fried reindeer meat in a smoky tent, to watching Macbeth sitting in an icy reproduction of London's Globe Theater. I hate being cold, but as I read the book, I could actually picture myself taking the trip she did. My reaction is testimony to Sjoholm's ability to engage readers from the outset and keep them with her until the last page of this fascinating adventure.
Chilly, but Compelling
I purchased this book after an amazon.com recommendation popped up while I was purchasing a Lapland tour guide for an upcoming winter trip. In a way, the book was off-putting, not because of the cold (which I expect) but because the whole region sounds so dreary in the winter and because she makes my primary destination, Kiruna, sound like a dump of a mining town with little purpose other than serving as a jumping off point to other activities in the region. I started having second thoughts about taking the trip at all after reading this book. Still, her visits and description of the Ice Hotel in Jukkasjarvi were interesting and I learned a great deal of useful historical detail and information about the Sami culture and lifestyle that will make my trip more meaningful. Overall, the book fits nicely into my knowledge-gathering effort before this trip.




