Product Description

Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #256050 in Books
• Published on: 1995-11-03
• Original language: English
• Number of items: 1
• Binding: Paperback
• 256 pages

Customer Reviews

A good book for newbies (or non-mechanically inclined)
This book has some good informational tidbits, but unfortunately not enough detail. I guess if a person does not have a lot of experience working on a car and has bought an older Corvette in decent shape, then perhaps the book may encourage the person to do some work on their own. It's not useless, but not really detailed, either.

One of the disappointing factors is that alot of what is presented could have been from a "How to restore a Chevy" book. One of the main differences between a Corvette and a Chevy is the fact that a Corvette is fiberglass. In depth fiberglass repair is never covered in any Corvette restoration book, service manual, and repair manual I've seen so far. Most Corvettes that need restoration have been beat on to varying degrees, and that means fiberglass repair and possible debonding & bonding, patching and realigning major body panels. It would have been nice to see this feature, because while even many car enthusiasts have worked on steel bodied cars, fiberglass, and the methods that Chevy used in joining the fibreglass to the car (bonding in so many different, and hidden, places) presents some interesting differences (and headaches!).

Mr. Newton spends a lot of time coaching people on how to buy a Corvette and seems to want to steer people in an economically safe direction, but if you are buying & truly restoring a Corvette, you are not exactly making an economically frugal restoration statement! Unfortunatley this is not unique to this book, beacause almost every instructional restoration or how-to book spends chapter(s) on "how to buy a car" - perhaps this is required by the publishers?

But while on the subject on how to buy a car, the author speaks like well driving, good condition Corvettes are common, and tries to steer the reader in that direction. In my neck of the woods (Central Florida) most nice Corvettes are definitely not for sale, and when they are, they do not need a complete restoration. Perhaps a little work here and there, but not a real restoration. Most economic Corvettes for sale here are basket cases, and these are the ones that need a complete restoration. The author also speaks like 68-72 L88's & big blocks are common, indicating that at any given time there are at least a dozen L88's for sale. Perhaps in Hemming's in different parts of the USA, but I've been interested in Corvettes for the past 7 years, I have *never* seen an L88 for sale in Central Florida in the local paper. He also says that the 68-72 big block 427's & 454's are not rare at all - their rarity is a myth. He is correct based on a pecentage of these cars built. But for sale today? I maybe come across about 1 or 2 a year in the local paper. I've only seen three 454 Corvettes (no 427s) in the past 7 years on the road, and I'm not sure if any of the cars were an authentic LS5 or LS6 or not! The only time I see these cars for sale are at car shows, and I'm not sure a car show is the best place to buy a car - can't do a title check over the weekend - and the owners want a lot of money anyway. The overwhelming majority of the factory built big blocks in Central Florida are not for sale, and one cannot find one at any time (at least here).

Mr. Newton's tone, perhaps intended to be informal and friendly, seems at times to be a bit on the sarcastic side, and this detracts from the reading. It really did not add anything to the material presented.

Overall, if you are restoring a Corvette, the best bet-mechanical books (from my experience) are a repair manual like Haynes, the Assembly manual for your model year, "The Corvette Restoration Guide" by Richard Prince (not a restoration how-to guide either, but a good description of what was available and when, so a great check list when doing a real restoration). As far as painting goes, my wife has the 1984 edition of "How to Restore Your Collector Car" by Tom Brownell, which is excellent. I have not seen the 1999 edition, though, and hope nothing was left out.

If you get this book, please bear in mind that it is informational, and while having some interesting and helpful tidbits, it is not really a restoration bible.

Don't restore your corvette before you read this book !!
This is the book you need to read before you begin to restore your Corvette 68-82. It's not a restoring manual, but gives you a pretty good idea of what you are up against. Part for part it tells you what you can do yourself and what you have to send out of the house.I used it when I restored my -69 targa, small block. Here in Denmark we are ca. 200 corvette-owners, so experience is scarce. With this book and your Haynes Manual you are well off. Buy it !!! (I'm not getting any money for telling you this. It's just a good advise, and the book is cheap compared to your restoration-expences!).

Original perspective, but lacks test data
This book offers a unique perspective on Corvette restoration. The author restores a 68 Corvette and summarizes the process throughout the book. The car is kept looking stock, but has been fitted with some high-performance modifications such as a high-torque motor and racing-style suspension components. This book gives the reader an alternative view that differs from the factory original restoration.

One major flaw to his plan is the lack of a track test data section like those found in some automotive magazines. Do all of these modifications really result in a Corvette that is faster and handles better than a factory original? That question is never truly answered. This book is actually a compilation of how-to articles that first appeared in Corvette Fever magazine in the 90s. Thus, it is saturated with product plugs for everything from car parts to spray paint.

Another problem that shouldn't go without mention is some bad advice given by the author. For example, he takes a 30 yr. old fuel tank, dumps a can of sealer into it, and puts it back into the car. When you consider the overall cost of a project like this, a new fuel tank is a drop in the bucket. He also tells the reader to use a brass punch and a hammer to install the fuel sending unit. Don't try this. They make a special tool for this purpose. You wouldn't want your prize restoration turning into a prize inferno. Overall, this book contains some good information that you don't find in other restoration books, but it could use a newly revised edition.