Product Description

This elegant flat card makes the ideal invitation to just about any event! This grape-colored card features a floral spray jutting out from the bottom left side of the card. Add your personalized text to complete the look.

Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #23107 in Home Improvement
• Brand: Forrest
• Model: DK08244
• Number of items: 1
• Dimensions: 3.50" h x 14.00" w x 12.00" l, 8.00 pounds

Features

• A heavier than normal steel plate maintains maximum stability for the best cut
• A negative face hook also adds to optimum rigidity when cutting
• Each blade is hand straightened to run out of .001- or .002-inch for maximum cut quality
• Eliminates bottom splintering on radial crosscuts
• With new 300-degree ATB tooth style this blade stops totally--all bottom and top splintering on ply veneers on both radial and table saw machines

From the Manufacturer
Forrest's blades offer a superior cut that leaves a rip-cut saw edge that is as smooth as if it had been sanded, and a cross-cut edge that is almost mark-free. The blades run very quietly, and backside tearout in plywood is negligible. Each blade is virtually hand-made. The plate is hand-tensioned (up to 15 minutes per blade), superior C-4 carbide teeth are hand-brazed to the plate, and the blade is straightened and restraightened multiple times throughout the process. Think of a Forrest blade as a tool in your shop, not an accessory. Forrest stands behind it's blades by offering a sharpening service that bring blades back to the exact tolerances offered in a new blade. And this same exacting service is available for other manufacturer's blades as well, so they should come back better than new. Forrest Miter Master blades work with all makes of double or single miter saws. These professional quality miter saw blades produce tight, perfectly cut miter joints with no bottom splinters. These saw blades are specially designed to cut extruded profiles, bars, and plate stock.

Customer Reviews

The BEST Dado Set EVER MADE!
Have you ever cut a dado and the parts fit perfectly, just clicking them together? You will every time with this set. You should make a test cut each time you change stock just to be sure, but this set is easy to setup. There is a chart that comes with it telling the mix of blades and chippers for each common thickness (I put mine in a sheet protecter to help me find it). If it is off just a little, slip in one or more of the supplied plastic shims to acheive perfection! I have a cheap caliper that I check plywood with and that gets me pretty close on the first try.

I was cutting a bunch of dados last night in 3/4" birch plywood and there was absolutely no splintering or tearout. I was using a shop made plywood insert in my Jet table saw that was probably 3/64" below the cast iron table. In other words, it was a not-quite-zero-clearance insert and still no problems.

I have a couple of old wobble blades and a Wards set that between them can't hold a trott-line, so I don't know what I'll use them for now. The Forrest Dado King is the only one I'll ever use again!

It's supposed to be that way...
The review below notes that the bottoms of the dado are 'not flat'. Even though he still gave it four stars, I think it's important to note that this is normal for the Forrestt and was not a defective blade. The ouside blades have a scoring profile on alernate teeth that does give tiny 'batman ears' at the each corner, when the dado is viewed on end. This is why the set cuts so well in lamanated materials. But it's true that when making box joints and the like, where the profile of the dado is exposed, they will be visible.

Forrest 8" Dado Set vs Freud 8" Super Dado Set
Forrest makes a clean sweep in the awards ceremonies. Their Woodworker II took top honors in Fine Woodworking Magazines run off of blades. Close behind was the Freud at a quarter of the cost. Excellent for both blades on smoothness of cut, but the Forrest earned an excellent on tearout, whereas the Freud earned a very good. Well I bought both, and found the Freud to cut a surface so smooth that it was glass like. If I was going to put a finish on it, I would rough it up with 200 grit to improve the adhesion, it was that smooth. Also the Freud had absolutely no tear out, not even a little bit. Perfect is the word here. So why did I buy the Forrest Woodworker II also? Because everybody was raving about it. Forrest makes great products.
On the Dado set, I noticed the reviewers stating that their was a tiny ridge at the bottom of the dado cut, created with the Forrest. The Freud has similar results. Oddly enough the Freud creates a perfect edge when making finger joints and the like, even though when you look down into the pocket, their are miniscule ridges in the cut. Comments that the end result on the Forrest have me concerned, stating that the edge is not perfect. Is this an example of more expensive must be better syndrome?
I bought the Freud Super Dado set based on my earlier experience with their standard saw blade vs the Forrest. I'm glad I did. No matter what you buy, a good old fashioned sacrificial piece of scrap sandwiched to your work piece is your best guarantee against tear out when working with expensive woods.
If you look at the Amazon sales rank, the Freud outsells the Forrest 4 to 1. Of course anything that is less money, sells more quantity, but I just can't get beyond the "perfect" performance of the Freud. How do you improve on that?
This is not a dig on Forrest. They make first class products. Just something to consider. I hope this was helpful.