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Bananas: An American History

Bananas: An American History
By Virginia Scott Jenkins

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Before 1880 most Americans had never seen a banana, but by 1910 bananas were so common that the streets were littered with their peels. In this wide-ranging history of the most popular and least expensive fruit in the United States, Virginia Scott Jenkins covers every aspect of the banana in American culture, from its beginnings as luxury food to its reputation as the "poor man's" fruit to its role today as a healthy, easy-to-carry snack. Bananas provides an insightful look at a fruit with appeal.


Product Details

  • Amazon Sales Rank: #546237 in Books
  • Published on: 2000-08-17
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 228 pages

Features


Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly
"A study of the banana at first may appear frivolous," writes Jenkins (The Lawn: A History of an American Obsession). But "the use of everyday food can offer a window into the culture of the United States." Drawing from an unusual assemblage of evidence, Jenkins (a scholar-in-residence at the Chesapeake Maritime Museum) argues that Americans' ideas about the fruitAhow to store it, how to cook it, what it's good forAwere invented, over the course of the 19th and 20th centuries, by advertisers and growers. And their campaigns worked like a charm: before 1880, most Americans hadn't even seen a banana; by 1910, they were consuming vast quantities of the fruit. How did this happen? Introduced to wealthy Americans in the second half of the 19th century as a delicacy, Jenkins argues, the banana was quickly seized upon by businessmen who understood that they could make a huge profit importing fruit. So they built large banana plantations in Central America and the Caribbean; soon, they had gained economic and political power in Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Haiti and Mexico. Protected by American troops, U.S. corporations like United Fruit helped set up puppet dictatorships in countries wherever they had plantations (hence the term "banana republic"). Jenkins capably takes readers through this history, then describes how American businesses orchestrated popular demand for the fruitAby keeping the price low and waging a relentless advertising campaign that promoted the banana as delicious and healthful, either raw or cooked. Although the book includes a wealth of trivia on banana jokes, songs and recipes, it is really Jenkins's historical overview of the banana's production, marketing and transporting that makes this book a strong contribution to the growing field of food studies. B&w photos. (Sept.)
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.

From Library Journal
Bananas is the latest in a line of social histories of different foodstuffs. Jenkins, a scholar-in-residence at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum and author of The Lawn: An American Obsession, discusses the influence of bananas on American foreign policy, humor, and popular music (from Carmen Miranda to the Chiquita Banana Song). She does bring up some interesting points, e.g., that American banana companies were responsible for much of the infrastructure built in Central America and that the Banana Festival in Fulton, KY, was actually a weapon against communism. But Jenkins's study bogs down when she discusses the marketing strategies of the banana companies. Comprising the bulk of the book, this repetitious discussion makes more of the material than is warranted. If your library includes Mark Kurlansky's Cod (LJ 7/97), Betty Fussell's The Story of Corn (LJ 7/92), and Larry Zuckerman's Potato: How the Humble Spud Rescued the Western World (Faber & Faber, 1998), this might be a worthy complement; otherwise, it is not essential.DTom Vincent, P.L. of Charlotte & Mecklenburg Cty., NC
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.

From Booklist
Although the study of the banana at first may appear frivolous, Jenkins insists that the social history of food can offer a window on culture, and her focus here is the nineteenth- and twentieth-century U.S. By 1999 annual consumption of the fruit had risen to 75 bananas per person, more than any other fruit. The first chapter traces the introduction of bananas into the U.S., and the second chapter discusses the development of the major U.S. banana-importing companies, the original multinational corporations. The author explores the growth of the nation's modern transportation system, using the banana as an example of a perishable commodity that was difficult to move from producer to consumer. She discusses marketing, public health and sanitation issues, and consumption of the fruit (banana splits, banana bread, and bananas on our breakfast cereal, for instance). A chapter on celebrating bananas is devoted to the twin cities of Fulton, Kentucky, and South Fulton, Tennessee, where a weeklong International Banana Festival is held each year. A final chapter looks at the fruit's place in American culture. George Cohen
Copyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved


Customer Reviews

Yes! We have the cultural history of bananas!5

Who would have thought there was so much to say about the modern
love affair between America and bananas? I should have known it,
though, for at Mathcamp the staff had entire wars based on bananas and
the pilfering thereof. We snuck extras out of the cafeteria, hid them
in refrigerators, even wrote our names on the peels in a feeble
attempt to secure a personal, steady supply. Alas, it was not to
be. How did this miracle fruit go from being an exotic food iteam for
the rich to the universal snack? Jenkins tells us how, in this very
thoroughly researched book. Pretty much anything you want to know
about bananas in the 20th century is here: medical attitudes, recipes,
social status, trade wars, banana jokes ("I'm sorry, I can't hear
you -- I've got a banana in my ear.") - you name it, it's in
here, which is surprising for such a relatively trim book. She's got a
slew of references in the back, should you ever wish to check her
sources; for the less academic of us, there's also an extensive list
of banana songs.

Bananas are such a workaday fruit, we
forget how important they have been in reflecting society. With each
new medical fad, bananas reinvent themselves as a perfect food; during
the period where dirty fruit was a concern, the thick peel of the
banana was a boon; when vitamins, minerals, and proteins were seen as
important, bananas were found to have such things in abundance; when
high-calories and high-fat were a concern, bananas were found to be an
energy-full, low-fat snack. Even stranger, at one point in history,
bananas were considered a treatment for celiac disease (an extreme
form of gluten-intolerance - so basically all breads and grains are
inedible to such children, and many died due to malnutrition); during
World War II, during which much of the banana supply was cut off,
there were stories of frantic parents mobilizing entire towns to round
up banana supplies for their sick children, sure that their children
would die without bananas. And yet, in just a generation previous,
parents had been warned against giving =any= raw fruits or vegetables
to children under the age of 7. The chapter in which this fascinating
material resides is called "Peril and Panacea", which
provides a prismatic view of the changing medical atmosphere in
America in the 20th century. A few other details which I found
interesting: there were banana cookbooks, one of the recipes being for
"Bananas and Bacon" - I kid you not. There's even a picture
of it in the book. As well, much of the editorial cartoons and jokes
involving banana peels reflected anti-immigrant sentiment, once
bananas had become so cheap even the newly arrived poor could afford
to eat them. Of course, there are a couple of obligatory "banana
as phallus" remarks (explaining why proper young women were to
use a knife and fork to eat the offending fruit), but they do not
overwhelm. Sometimes a banana is just a banana.

The only
other fruit that could possibly have had as much impact on the
American psyche is the apple (well, maybe the orange). Though this is
a history book, it is far from dry, and Jenkins lets off a couple
zingers of her own. If you've ever eaten a banana or know someone who
has, this book is for you; so I guess that means about everyone. I
have no idea, then, why this isn't at the top of the bestseller
list.



Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Bananas...4
An entertaining work - a complete history of the banana in American culture. How they were introduced, how and where they are grown and shipped, how we've eaten them through history, and how we have celebrated their contribution to the American diet...an engaging and fun social and political history of the most popular fruit in America (yep, we collectively eat more bananas than apples.) Reading the book made me want to eat more bananas! And, I have. I wish it had included a few recipes, even some historic ones.

Bananas in Repetition2
For those fascinated with bananas, this book offers an insight into the toothsome tropical tube. Aside from some cautions which I will discuss further on, the book is full of useful and little-known information, like the coinage of the term "Banana Republic"; the histories of two large companies, Chiquita and Dole; and the change in ideas concerning the banana, from tropical delicacy to poor-man's fruit. Sadly, as this is a history of the banana in America, there is little written as to its origins in Asia and its earlier uses. Consider Bananas the story of how an inported fruit became a symbol of the United States.

I had some complaints about the book, however. The author put the chapters together like essays: each one does not have to be read before the other, as a lot of the information is repeated to illustrate a slightly different example in other contexts. This approach lends tedious reading; I could not help but think the book could be much shorter than its tight 171 pages. Moreover, some of the research is obviously low-key: she mentions banana-flavoured ice cream in stores today, but only makes use of her local groceries (Safeway & Giant) as examples. It leads me to wonder what else is written in her book as a general fact based on a small sample. The author also spends much of the text quoting verbatim recipes, sayings, and articles that are either unnecessary or redundant.

Nevertheless, for those interested in the study of food, this book is not to be passed over, despite my rating of two stars of five. There are a few gems-- especially in the first few chapters-- that are of definite interest.