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Cambodia (Country Guide)

Cambodia (Country Guide)
By Nick Ray

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Discover Cambodia

Sunrise or sunset? Discover the perfect light to greet the 216 faces of Angkor's Bayon temple
Pound, whisk and sizzle your way through a cooking course in Siem Reap (and don't skimp on the fermented fish paste)
Detour off the temple trail for snorkelling and sunset cocktails on Serendipity Beach
Feel the buzz in Phnom Penh: from bustling backstreets to relaxed riverside bars

In This Guide:

Unmatched off-the-beaten-track coverage: from jungles in the southwest to remote mountains in the north
Includes information on the best ecotourism and community-run projects in the country
Visit lonelyplanet.com for up-to-the-minute reviews, updates and traveller insights


Product Details

  • Amazon Sales Rank: #12886 in Books
  • Published on: 2008-08-01
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 374 pages

Features


Editorial Reviews

Review
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From the Publisher
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Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
Cambodia is back on the map! The word is out, Cambodia is the place to be in Asia right now and no longer a country where visitors need fear tread. Peace has come to this beautiful yet blighted land after three decades of civil war and the Cambodian people are opening their arms to the world. Now is the perfect time to witness this rebirth of a nation before it becomes just another stop on the tourist merry-go-round.

For far too long, war combined with a vast communist-inspired 'experiment' removed Cambodia from the tourist map. The very word Cambodia came to be associated with atrocities, poverty and refugees. The tragedy of it all belonged to the Cambodians themselves, but is was also a great loss to travelers in Asia.

During much of the 1990s Cambodia remained a difficult country in which to travel due to the presence of Khmer Rouge guerrillas in many provinces. If that wasn't enough to scare people away, then the politicians in Phnom Penh usually managed to cook up a crisis that would deter those contemplating a fleeting visit. However, the long and bloody civil war is definitely over and the Khmer Rouge is no longer terrorizing the people of Cambodia. This is good news, not just for the country's stoical people, but also for tourists planning a trip to Cambodia, as all of the country is open for exploration, most of which could not be visited just a few years ago.

Cambodia lies at the heart of Indochina, bordered by Thailand to the west, Laos and Thailand to the north and Vietnam to the east. It is a fascinating place that, despite its tiny size and large, powerful neighbors, has managed to remain uniquely Khmer. Its cultural traditions have travelled the passage of time, predating those of Thailand, and unlike Vietnam, which was always influenced by China, its dominant influences stem from the Indian subcontinent.

Modern-day Cambodia is the successor-state to the mighty Khmer empire, which during the Angkorian period (9th to 14th centuries AD) was the cultural heartland of Southeast Asia. It ruled over much of what is now Vietnam, Laos and Thailand, and its legacy is one of the wonders of the world. The ruins of Angkor are in a class of their own: there is no other historical site in Southeast Asia that matches their grandeur. The traveler's first glimpse of Angkor Wat, which represents the full flowering of Khmer genius, is a breathtaking experience, matched by only a few places on earth such as the Great Pyramid of Giza or Machu Picchu in Peru.

Cambodia has enormous potential as a travel destination, and investors are moving in with an eye to the day when tourists arrive in the numbers that nearby Thailand enjoys. The land borders with Thailand are now open to foreigners and there are direct flights between Siem Reap and many neighboring capitals. Angkor is once more at the forefront of visitors' minds on a journey to Southeast Asia, as it was before the war cast a shadow over this kingdom. To talk in terms of millions may sound fanciful, but with the temples of Angkor, Cambodia has something unique that none of its neighbors can rival. It also has empty beaches and islands along the south coast, with barely a bungalow in sight, and isolated national parks that are just starting to see the first trickle of visitors. The meandering Mekong River holds the promise of boat trips through Cambodia, north into Laos or south to Vietnam's Mekong Delta. Its mighty waters also provide a habitat for some of the last remaining freshwater dolphins in Asia. In the northeast of the country are wild and mountainous landscapes, home to Cambodia's ethnic minorities and much of the country's diminishing wildlife and forest. Lost in the jungles of the north are countless mysterious temple complexes, forgotten to the world for several long and turbulent decades, offering the visitor the chance to capture the emotions of explorers of old.

Finally there are the people. Cambodians have weathered years of bloodshed, poverty and political instability. Somehow they have come through the experience with smiles still intact. Admittedly Cambodia needs the money that tourism brings, but there is an air of genuine enthusiasm and warmth towards foreign visitors. Nobody comes away from Cambodia without a measure of admiration and affection for the inhabitants of this beautiful yet troubled country.


Customer Reviews

Still the essential guide for traveling in Cambodia...5
I've been to Cambodia several times now and this is the guide I will continue to buy. It's important to have an up to date guide to Cambodia as the country has and is changing so rapidly (5 years ago you couldn't walk 20 metres without coming across someone with a gun in Phnom Penh and most of the roads weren't sealed). I would still buy each new edition that came out simply for the knowledge of the important basic things that change like transport routes and times etc. that are constantly changing.

Cambodia is now well and truly open for tourists. I know from speaking with locals that the author, Nick, spends a lot of time in Cambodia and has great local knowledge (I'm kind of cheesed a little since he's included many of my previously unknown haunts and now they get filled up well in advance).

I do have some criticism of the guide, and I guess how people use it. First, people mostly tend to go to restaurants and guesthouses recommended in the book. I've found many places that I've enjoyed staying that are not in the book and in many cases are better than places in the guidebook (and cheaper, many places, particularly in SEA put their prices up after getting an LP inclusion). The towns are generally small enough that you can look around and also ask people who live there for their recommendations. (Most times you can `feel' when someone has no agenda in recommending a places versus someone who'd take you someone who gains to get a commission out of you going there - and the commission system is well and truly alive in Cambodia - they're not huge in $ terms but you don't want to stay in a dump when better alternatives are available and also there's the consideration that price you pay in Cambodia is not always related to the quality you get).

The other thing is often Lonely Planet uses text from previous editions (which is particularly worrying for guesthouse inclusions) and so some descriptions are a little (or a lot) out of date. While there are definitely some good places recommended there, you will often find them full of other backpackers and tourists so either you can't get a booking or there will indeed just be tones of people there which will likely detract from your experience. Restaurant and guest house recommendations, particularly in the two major cities need to be used with discretion. It's also good to spread your money around.

Some of the benefits of the book - it does clue you in to things that are very important that you otherwise would have a hard time finding out - e.g. if you take the bus from Thailand, they do slow that bus down and make the trip long and tiring as you're pre-sold for a commission to the (rotating) guesthouse they drop you off at (so you're deliberately) exhausted late at night; another useful tip was the dangerous Malaysian boats that do the Siem Reap - Phnom Penh route. You need impartial and insider advice for these kind of things because you wont necessarily get it from an average local (unless you really have their confidence and then they might tell you about stuff that sometimes doesn't get into the guidebooks - e.g. how many travelers have been killed or injured using certain types of transport like their outdated planes and some boats and other local knowledge you simply cant get from this guidebook).

For the tourist just doing the major sites, the book has extensive maps and guides to the Angkor temples and their history and layout and also Phnom Penh (which is unfortunately where most people may end their trip). The brief guide to the local language in the back will most definately help you connect with the already friendly locals. Even if you only learn please, hello and thank you, people will greatly appreciate your efforts.

The guide to some of the lesser known places is less comprehensive (eg. North, and east and some parts of the south like Campot and Kep). My friends and I were in fits of laughter at the description of Sen Monorom being like something like Switzerland! It's a LONG trip and the end result is very baron, and, unfortunately, losing lots of trees due to extensive and damaging logging. Nonetheless, I found the trips to the outlying places to be extremely rewarding. There's practically no tourists (you can have amazing trips and have entire beach to yourself for a day for less than $20) and some of the food, sights, sunsets and other experiences are simply stunning. You may however want to pass on those black delicacies they seem to enjoy tucking into on the bus... they're fried bush spiders! Cambodia does though have some of the nicest sugar cane juice I've tasted anywhere in South East Asia.

BTW if they're still using the 4 people for 3 seats in the car, just pay for the extra seat if you're doing more than 3 hours or you will find yourself in excruciating pain. Also, because it changes so often the guidebook will not be useful if you're taking an internal flight (other than the standard Phnom Penh-Siem Reap route which uses brand new planes), as some of the planes are VERY old, tires are sometimes bald, flights full (which can be a problem if you want to get back), and there have been accidents which they wont tell you about. Do your own research.

For people traveling on their own or as a backpacker I'd strongly recommend befriending a local or two as a guide. I always take some time to 'feel' the authenticity of the person approaching me and as they talk to me and that pay's huge rewards in a country where there is a hidden commission system. I've met two that I'd just take with me over the entire country next time as guides because they have extensive insider knowledge and can be invaluable if you get into trouble, especially if they relate well to other people.

Cambodia offers trips that you simply cannot do in the same way in other countries in the region because there are so many tourists, laws and other limiting factors. If you've found a great concierge (who is connected to what's happening at the ground level) or a good guide you're going to get access to trips and really deep and rich experiences that will stay with you for a lifetime. And, these are not in the guidebook, which, IMHO, is a great thing because you'll enjoy a totally unique experience and you'll get out of it in proportion to what you put in and not some off the shelf, generic and standardized `you can take your photos now' tourist experience. Sadly, in a few years time you may not be able to do this in much of South East Asia.

So grab this guide, go beyond the majors of Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville and enjoy one of the most beautiful countries in South East Asia, Cambodia. Treat your Lonely Planet as a guide and not a bible and you'll have the time of your life.

I hope you enjoy your time in Cambodia as much as I have.

Must Have For Cambodia Trip5
I decided to be a little different when I went to Southeast Asia. Instead of taking the Lonely Planet Books which I had done to past trips to China, and England I went with the Rough Guide. What a mistake. Such a mistake that about 1/2 through the trip, somewhere in Thailand I think, I threw the book out and picked up LP guides to Vietnam and Cambodia.

The Cambodia book is great. Great information, easy to follow guides to Angkor what else could you need. LP really tells it as it is. Cambodia is a place changing everyday. Fortunately for the last year or two its been relatively calm and tourist friendly. How long this will last is anyone's guess. I hope stablity have finally come to this country with such a tragic history.

Angkor is a unbelievable place and the LP book will get you through it and teach you a lot.

Get this book before you go!

Necessity for a trip5
Planning a trip to Cambodia is not easy. The country is still not very accessible although much has been improved in the past years, in particular available flights.

If you plan to go, read the guide very carefully. It gives you enough background to do it on your own. However, I would still recommend to go for local assistance ( with the exception of Siem Rap when visiting Ankor Wat)

The country is beautiful and the people are very nice. If you have time and sense of adventure it is definitely worth a trip.

Pnom Penh should be the centre of the visit and the guide is at it's most helpful here with good background on the Tol Sluen Prison or the Killing Fields as well as on the nicer things like the Palace and the Silver Pagoda. A tip: try to take a good hotel. PP can be a bit depressing, particularly after a visit to the fields, and also is not a very safe place to go out at night without guide or transport. If you have transport you should eat of course in the Foreign Correspondent Club.

Angkor Wat is a must, although the guide maybe overdoes it a little. I find that you must be a real "culture buff" to use more than one day for a visit. In Siem Rap there is nothing, so don't fall for the trap of a four day visit.

In general, I find the guide giving good information and,as in all the countries here in SE-Asia, if you want to travel alone, you HAVE to take it with you.

I have been in Cambodia now a couple of times and each time I find it a good adventure, not in the least because of the help of this good guide.